Culture, though challenging to articulate in words, finds profound expression through actions. In Saint Lucia, one of the most compelling cultural manifestations is the tradition of wearing Madras fabric. This vibrant textile, with its origins in Madras (now Chennai), India, arrived in the Caribbean through colonial trade routes. Initially a lightweight cotton material, Madras became a symbol of resilience and identity for enslaved Africans in Saint Lucia. While they were often compelled to wear estate livery, they embraced Madras garments during feast days and special occasions as a form of self-expression and dignity.
Over time, Madras became integral to Creole fashion, particularly in the Wob Dwiyet, a traditional four-piece costume for women. Today, it stands as a national emblem, especially during Creole Month celebrations. Shanice Francis, known as Gruntage Baby, is a Saint Lucian fashion designer and owner of Gruntage Studios, who has been instrumental in preserving and redefining this cultural heritage. Living in the diaspora, Francis uses Madras to connect with her roots and celebrate her heritage through her innovative designs.
Francis emphasizes the importance of evolving traditional Madras designs to make them accessible to a broader audience. She envisions leveraging Saint Lucia’s tourism industry to promote Madras globally, suggesting its incorporation into resort staff uniforms. She also advocates for better access to resources for local creatives to thrive and scale their productions. Francis’s advice to young designers is to infuse their work with the spirit of Saint Lucia, sharing the stories behind the art and collaborating globally while retaining their unique cultural voice.