As Saint Lucia commemorates Mwa Éwitaj Kwéyòl (Creole Heritage Month), the essence of Creole culture is vividly alive in its cuisine. For Chef Rashid ‘Papi’ Defraitas, a Saint Lucian chef based abroad, the aromas of green seasoning, fried accra, and simmering bouillon are more than just culinary delights—they are a profound connection to his roots, heritage, and purpose. Defraitas’ journey into the culinary world began unexpectedly during the COVID-19 pandemic. Isolated from loved ones, he turned to cooking as a creative outlet, transforming curiosity into a professional passion. Starting with humble experiments in his kitchen, Defraitas faced initial skepticism from family and friends, who were amused by his newfound interest. However, through relentless practice and countless trials, he honed his skills and began sharing his creations online, eventually turning his passion into a career. For Defraitas, Saint Lucian cuisine is more than food—it is identity. He believes in evolving traditional dishes rather than reinventing them, aiming to celebrate classic flavors while adding his unique touch. One of his signature innovations is the reimagined fish cake, or ‘accra,’ paired with a garlic-lime aioli to elevate its presentation while preserving its authentic essence. Defraitas’ cooking philosophy is deeply rooted in the principles of patience, layering, and seasoning, techniques passed down through generations of Saint Lucian cooks. His signature dish, pig foot souse, exemplifies this approach, blending traditional ingredients with fresh herbs and vibrant vegetables to create a dish that is both familiar and refreshingly new. As Mwa Éwitaj Kwéyòl continues, Defraitas’ story embodies the spirit of the season, showcasing how heritage, heart, and purpose can come together to create culinary masterpieces that honor and innovate Saint Lucian culture.
