The decision by Asian e-commerce giant Shein to establish its first permanent physical store in Paris has ignited a wave of controversy in the fashion capital. The store, set to open in November at the historic BHV Marais department store, has drawn sharp criticism from local brands and trade unions. BHV Marais, an iconic building opposite Paris City Hall since 1856, has already been struggling with tenant departures due to late payments. Shein’s announcement prompted several French brands, including Aime cosmetics, to exit the department store, with co-founder Mathilde Lacombe expressing deep shock over the deal. Trade unions have called for strike action, warning of a ‘short-term threat to the survival of the department store.’ Critics argue that Shein’s ultra-competitive pricing and fast-fashion model, which has disrupted traditional retail globally, could further harm French stores already facing layoffs and closures. The company, founded in China and now based in Singapore, has faced international scrutiny over environmental and labor concerns. The French ready-to-wear women’s clothing association, FFPAPF, condemned the move, fearing a flood of disposable products in the market. Meanwhile, the European Commission is investigating Shein for illegal product risks, and EU lawmakers recently approved legislation to curb fast fashion’s environmental impact. Former French environmental transition minister Christophe Bechu criticized Shein’s arrival as contrary to the country’s convictions. Despite the backlash, Shein framed its entry as a tribute to Paris’s status as a fashion hub. Executive Chairman Donald Tang stated, ‘By choosing France as the place to trial physical retail, we are honouring its position as a key fashion capital and embracing its spirit of creativity and excellence.’